Monday, May 14, 2012

Steak Hunters of GIR

Sasan Gir Sanctuary is place of numerous human settlements called Maldhari. Maldhari are devoutly religious pastoral communities which has become an integral part of the Gir forests for over 125 years. They live in settlement called ‘nesses’ inside the forests and are engaged in the occupation of cattle rearing.

The Maldhari community migrated into the Gir forest despite obvious dangers and a total lack of infrastructure, in order to maintain their way of life. When the park was declared, they were allowed to remain and continue their traditional practices; in fact, Gir forest is now virtually the only area where the Maldharis still live as they wish.

The Gir National Park has an entrance at Sassan. A drive from Ahmadabad would take around 8-9 hours on the National highway 8. There are also overnight trains available from Ahmadabad to Sassan.

The best way of going around Gir is hiring a jeep that makes its way across the natural surroundings and you could easily spot many animals with the help of the experienced drivers.

The Gir region has seven perinneal rivers which are Shetrunji, Godavari, Raval, Hiran, Datardi and Machhundri. There are four reservoirs in the area as Hiran, Raval, Shingoda and Machhundri. The biggest reservoir in the area is at Kamleshwar Dam which forms the lifeline of Gir.

When the area is hit by draught, water scarcity becomes a major issue since there is no surface water available for the animals. The Forest Department has to make sure there is drinking water made available for the animals.

Gir forest is a very dry teak forest mixed with the deciduous variety of trees. Gir is the largest dry deciduous forest in western India. Teak is found only in the eastern part of the forest. The forest is known for its biological importance and recreational values. The forest provides tons of wood for fuel and grass.

There are a few Acacia and Banyan trees that could be found in Gir. Along the rivers and streams there is vegetation that adds to the forest’s flora. Some of the species of trees that are found here include Umro, Vad, Sirus, Kalam, Amli, Jambu and Charal etc. The luscious green forest and the broad leaves keeps the forest cool and retains the moisture content.

Gir Forest locals reports
The Lions also face the threat of floods, drought, fire and other natural calamities. Gir still remains the only hope of preserving these endangered species. The Government and the forest department made a program called the Lion Breeding Programme when the count of the lions had suddenly fallen down to as low at 52 in 2005. This program helps in creating and maintaining breeding places for the lions and it also carries out behavior studies. The program also facilitates artificial insemination. One of the many centers is in Sakkarbaug Zoo in Junagarh which has been successful in breeding as many as 180 lions.

Important Information
It is recommended that you do not disturb the animals especially when they are sleeping. Do not try to irritate them and make them angry by teasing them. It’s suggested that you take an official guide who could help you in the tour.

You are requested not to smoke inside the park. Causing damage to the flora of the forest is strictly prohibited. Wear something loose and comfortable and always blend in with the park. Camping and having a picnic is not allowed. Don’t forget to carry water with you.

My Experience
The emperor of modern India is he Lion and not the tiger. Hunting has depleted the lion population that just 300 are left in modern India. They are protected now. Most of them live in the Gir Forest.  I went to Gir to meet them in their natural surroundings.

My guide points out to a short cut. This is truely Lion Country. Scortching sun hits me all over while I felt the heat even in the shade of the forest trees.  Above me the branches were alive with the sounds of parrots and others birds, some of them feeding their young ones.  The trees provide food for the monkeys.

While I cruised in my jeep a 'soaking up the sun' a sudden growl catches my eye.  A lion taking his rounds.  Here was the lion of Gir.  Lions usually hunt in pairs. I saw one and a few yards later another one.  While the older lion tugs into the flesh of her nights kill the other one waits her turn.  The older one returns to her cubs.

My jeep rolled further towards the Maldhari village.  The Maldari tribes live so close to the Gir forest.  They depend on water buffalows for their livelihood. Young and old looking after their cattle. Even their children help them.  They are very friendly, and what makes them unique is they raise their cattle next to a forest where the lions of India live.  I soon met two women churning buffalow's milk to make ghee.  I realised how much this tribe depends on buffalo.

The buffalo is a dangerous animal and even a lion will back away from an angry buffalo.  I then met two men sipping tea.  When I turned around I saw the woman clasning up her vessel and preparing to make her next batch of ghee.  I walked up to the woman who did not speak to me. She was shy, but very proudly show me the butter she would turn to ghee.

I left the Maldhari village and drove back to catch some jungle adventure.  We set up an observation point by the dense forest near a stream. A lion cub came by to have a drink. This an ideal spot to view the lions.  Soon another lion cub comes.  The river bed was steep and its was fun to see the cub loosing his grip of the land and come sliding down.  He reaches the water but not very gracefully as I expected.  These were fairly young cubs, but grown enough to be left on their own. 

Two little pig arive on the opposite side of the bank for a drink.  The cubs spots them.  The cub is inexperience, however anxious to learn. His companion.  The pigs retreat and then stop confused over this strange attacker. They can't seem to decide what to do.  One pig heads towards the other side of the bank while the cubs after the other.  Finally the cub catches one, and even though his paws are fully developed he must learn to catch them. The second cub now joins his brother to catch the pig.  If the cubs were a little more experience, they would not see the pig running off to safaty.  Hahahaha I laughed and read the cubs mind, 'Die another day'.  And there goes the other one.  They would be harder to catch next time.

The cubs soon forget their discipline and begin their favourite game of wrestling.  Cubs spend most of their time stocking one another, instead of improving their hunting skills which they will need in the future.  Their noisy chase startles a pocupine nearby.

One cubs see and wants to investigate.  Pocupine's are dangerous. Their quilt can cause serious wounds.  The pocupine raises his quilts as a sure sign he is getting angry.  I was worried. The cub could get hurt. The pocupine gets very angry and stars rattling his tail.  The cubs are surprised but this does not stop the cub.  The cubs get his mouth close to the pocupine. The battle begins, and the pocupine is off t his safaty. Those quilts are too much for a youngster to handle.  One cubs nurses his wounds having a had full of quilts.  Now the second cubs wants to try his luck.  He is a little more careful.  When he see his pray making a getaway, his instinct to attack grows even more strong.  Soon he had enough. A mouth full of the pocupine quilts, he realises that pocupine though small have more than enough to look after their selves.  Its a painful lesson both these cubs will never forget.

Before I left I went back to Maldhari village for a lovely village dinner and packed myself the biggest can of their ghee, the aroma of which still haunt me bringing back sweet memories of my enjoyable trip to Gir.

































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