Garbut Trek (Matheran)

Garbut Trek (Matheran) was one of the best trek ever not only because of the scenic beauty but because of the knowledge sharing we had simulatneously. Learning was no better than this. When we gathered in Bhivpuri Road railway station, I thought its going to be like just another trip in a group but the experience was totally opposite when we started from Bhivpuri village.

The road from Bhivpuri village to Matheran hill range is long and arduous and in this weather hot - but that's during the day. By night its long, arduous and cool! It is infact a wholly different experience - while during the day your senses are attuned to enjoying the view of tall mountains, deep valleys and blue skies, at night a different awareness sets in. The stars above, the night sounds of the jungle, the breeze, the mountains in stark silhouette and the mysterious valleys.

Garbut point is located on south-east side of Matheran with grand view of the plateau below. This time I decided to take challenge of night trek and finalized the night - 26th May 2012.  We reached Bhivpuri station at 7:45 pm. After getting down some of us went to buy some Bisleri bottle. Everyone was carrying at least 2 Liters of water bottle as there is no source of water during the trek. We started our walk at 9:30 pm. from Bhivpuri station and March towards base village – “Diksal”.

We had dinner. Luckily we found one general store open, but not able to fulfill our requirement. Nitin bought one cold drink bottle to subdue his thirst or increase ?...................... I don’t know …………..whatever it is and we continued our walk, After few mins. Of walk we reached to a lake which is an artificial (Man made) The lake was huge and we had to take a turn round the lake to reach at the base of the mountain.

This patch of trek was very boring as you were continuously walking on Murum road with no life on either side. After a long & boring walk we reach nearer to a small village which is located on top of small hill. All dogs from village noticed our presence And started barking continuously, so we decided to take a turn around village instead of going through the village. Here we lost our way for the first time. After taking a turn to village we walk more on left side, instead of right and missed our first landmark – “well”.

After a small search here & there, one villager shout toward us and directed the way from distance which we couldn’t make out. Villager was either awake or wake up due to dog barking. We three Sudamshu, Nitin & Me walk towards villager to understand exact way. He pointed towards one tree with the help of long stick he have, where the well is located and we started walking towards said direction.

Very soon that well is visible to us and we become very happy as we are now on right track but this happiness was temporary which we came to know later While walking towards well we came across to a poisonous snake. Snake was baby one but showing his anger against us as we disturb him a lot by throwing light on him. Everyone was enjoying snake and suddenly Nitin jump over & almost fall on his face, fortunately manage to save his face but leave some marks on his forehead. We decided to take water break for a while and again continued …………… After a little walk we came across to another bunch of houses & obviously dogs also. Here there was no chance of escape from dogs, we have to pass through the village as there was no other way and if it was there but we are not sure Here we lost again and it took us nearly 2 hour to get back on right track.

After crossing village, instead of going on left side we walk more on right side and enter into thorny plants and dead end. We completely lost our way. We can easily able to view Garbett platue from base, also compass shows us the same direction but not able to find out the way. Only way is to reach at the top of the hill and look for the way. Till now all people are exhausted and not in a position to climb further, but the important thing was to found the way. We here still at the base of Mountain and there was still more to go. Finally decided that two of us will go further climb the hill& search for the way and others will continued later. Me and Mandar move further. The hill climb was interesting but little scary. At the top of hill we found two Mango trees & a path along the trees leading towards top. Thus how we came back on right track. Now we were more confident & happy as we found our way.Immediately we call others and very soon everyone was gather there.Every one was exhausted & wanted a break. We took rest for sometime and again continue.This climb was very interesting as path was rocky & you came across to many beautiful spots while climbing.  Moonlight was making this trek more interesting by creating interesting shadows of mountains. An amazing combination of Black and white (shadows & moonlight). We finished this patch with in in a short time & reached at Garbett Platue.

The platue was huge and giving an amazing night view of Matheran towards west side. We reached platue at 2:30am. We spotted one clean place for our dinner as there cow dung everywhere. We finished our dinner & took a rest for sometime and continue our trek. Some of us wanted to rest more but we were already behind our schedule and we had to reach Matheran before sunrise. This was the last patchof our trek. This patch have small part of rocky way & more amount of walking through forest.Though it was a full moon night but because of forest there was pitch dark that one cannot see the things at a distance of two feet. While walking through forest we pass through a village. A herd of cows were seated on plane ground and their eyes were glittering.

We reached to a place where a huge stone was located this was our last landmark. The way on left side of stone goes to Matheran city , right side goes to Garbut point and middle one goes to Dasturi Naka. Here we took rest for sometime. We reached here at 5:30 am and still one hour to reach Dasturi Naka. We were 3 hour late from our schedule. Now continuing for second trek would be little difficult and most of us are exhausted and don’t want to continue, so finally decided to restrict up to Dasturi Naka and cancelled second trek.

We took a pleasure walk into Matheran city after an expensive breakfast and took a horse ride. Sudamshu offered us to do valley crossing from Honeymoon point to Louisa Point.

Steak Hunters of GIR

Sasan Gir Sanctuary is place of numerous human settlements called Maldhari. Maldhari are devoutly religious pastoral communities which has become an integral part of the Gir forests for over 125 years. They live in settlement called ‘nesses’ inside the forests and are engaged in the occupation of cattle rearing.

The Maldhari community migrated into the Gir forest despite obvious dangers and a total lack of infrastructure, in order to maintain their way of life. When the park was declared, they were allowed to remain and continue their traditional practices; in fact, Gir forest is now virtually the only area where the Maldharis still live as they wish.

The Gir National Park has an entrance at Sassan. A drive from Ahmadabad would take around 8-9 hours on the National highway 8. There are also overnight trains available from Ahmadabad to Sassan.

The best way of going around Gir is hiring a jeep that makes its way across the natural surroundings and you could easily spot many animals with the help of the experienced drivers.

The Gir region has seven perinneal rivers which are Shetrunji, Godavari, Raval, Hiran, Datardi and Machhundri. There are four reservoirs in the area as Hiran, Raval, Shingoda and Machhundri. The biggest reservoir in the area is at Kamleshwar Dam which forms the lifeline of Gir.

When the area is hit by draught, water scarcity becomes a major issue since there is no surface water available for the animals. The Forest Department has to make sure there is drinking water made available for the animals.

Gir forest is a very dry teak forest mixed with the deciduous variety of trees. Gir is the largest dry deciduous forest in western India. Teak is found only in the eastern part of the forest. The forest is known for its biological importance and recreational values. The forest provides tons of wood for fuel and grass.

There are a few Acacia and Banyan trees that could be found in Gir. Along the rivers and streams there is vegetation that adds to the forest’s flora. Some of the species of trees that are found here include Umro, Vad, Sirus, Kalam, Amli, Jambu and Charal etc. The luscious green forest and the broad leaves keeps the forest cool and retains the moisture content.

Gir Forest locals reports

The Lions also face the threat of floods, drought, fire and other natural calamities. Gir still remains the only hope of preserving these endangered species. The Government and the forest department made a program called the Lion Breeding Programme when the count of the lions had suddenly fallen down to as low at 52 in 2005. This program helps in creating and maintaining breeding places for the lions and it also carries out behavior studies. The program also facilitates artificial insemination. One of the many centers is in Sakkarbaug Zoo in Junagarh which has been successful in breeding as many as 180 lions.

Important Information

It is recommended that you do not disturb the animals especially when they are sleeping. Do not try to irritate them and make them angry by teasing them. It’s suggested that you take an official guide who could help you in the tour.

You are requested not to smoke inside the park. Causing damage to the flora of the forest is strictly prohibited. Wear something loose and comfortable and always blend in with the park. Camping and having a picnic is not allowed. Don’t forget to carry water with you.

My Experience

The emperor of modern India is he Lion and not the tiger. Hunting has depleted the lion population that just 300 are left in modern India. They are protected now. Most of them live in the Gir Forest.  I went to Gir to meet them in their natural surroundings.

My guide points out to a short cut. This is truely Lion Country. Scortching sun hits me all over while I felt the heat even in the shade of the forest trees.  Above me the branches were alive with the sounds of parrots and others birds, some of them feeding their young ones.  The trees provide food for the monkeys.

While I cruised in my jeep a 'soaking up the sun' a sudden growl catches my eye.  A lion taking his rounds.  Here was the lion of Gir.  Lions usually hunt in pairs. I saw one and a few yards later another one.  While the older lion tugs into the flesh of her nights kill the other one waits her turn.  The older one returns to her cubs.

My jeep rolled further towards the Maldhari village.  The Maldari tribes live so close to the Gir forest.  They depend on water buffalows for their livelihood. Young and old looking after their cattle. Even their children help them.  They are very friendly, and what makes them unique is they raise their cattle next to a forest where the lions of India live.  I soon met two women churning buffalow's milk to make ghee.  I realised how much this tribe depends on buffalo.

The buffalo is a dangerous animal and even a lion will back away from an angry buffalo.  I then met two men sipping tea.  When I turned around I saw the woman clasning up her vessel and preparing to make her next batch of ghee.  I walked up to the woman who did not speak to me. She was shy, but very proudly show me the butter she would turn to ghee.

I left the Maldhari village and drove back to catch some jungle adventure.  We set up an observation point by the dense forest near a stream. A lion cub came by to have a drink. This an ideal spot to view the lions.  Soon another lion cub comes.  The river bed was steep and its was fun to see the cub loosing his grip of the land and come sliding down.  He reaches the water but not very gracefully as I expected.  These were fairly young cubs, but grown enough to be left on their own. 

Two little pig arive on the opposite side of the bank for a drink.  The cubs spots them.  The cub is inexperience, however anxious to learn. His companion.  The pigs retreat and then stop confused over this strange attacker. They can't seem to decide what to do.  One pig heads towards the other side of the bank while the cubs after the other.  Finally the cub catches one, and even though his paws are fully developed he must learn to catch them. The second cub now joins his brother to catch the pig.  If the cubs were a little more experience, they would not see the pig running off to safaty.  Hahahaha I laughed and read the cubs mind, 'Die another day'.  And there goes the other one.  They would be harder to catch next time.

The cubs soon forget their discipline and begin their favourite game of wrestling.  Cubs spend most of their time stocking one another, instead of improving their hunting skills which they will need in the future.  Their noisy chase startles a pocupine nearby.

One cubs see and wants to investigate.  Pocupine's are dangerous. Their quilt can cause serious wounds.  The pocupine raises his quilts as a sure sign he is getting angry.  I was worried. The cub could get hurt. The pocupine gets very angry and stars rattling his tail.  The cubs are surprised but this does not stop the cub.  The cubs get his mouth close to the pocupine. The battle begins, and the pocupine is off t his safaty. Those quilts are too much for a youngster to handle.  One cubs nurses his wounds having a had full of quilts.  Now the second cubs wants to try his luck.  He is a little more careful.  When he see his pray making a getaway, his instinct to attack grows even more strong.  Soon he had enough. A mouth full of the pocupine quilts, he realises that pocupine though small have more than enough to look after their selves.  Its a painful lesson both these cubs will never forget.

Before I left I went back to Maldhari village for a lovely village dinner and packed myself the biggest can of their ghee, the aroma of which still haunt me bringing back sweet memories of my enjoyable trip to Gir.